Refined, classically inclined, quietly luxurious. Gabriela Hearst’s menswear is many issues, however attractive is just not essentially certainly one of them. That modifications although along with her fall 2024 providing. Within the lookbook, there’s a sliver of midriff between a comfortable cable knit sweater and the low slung, barely flared pants paired with it. The hip-huggers are modeled after those Hearst makes for Leiva, a Spanish musician and pal.

Hearst is a textile obsessive, and her style has all the time been rarified, however her selections this season felt notably sensuous. The white and pink silk velvet she used for button-down shirts (and the waistband of the silk cady trousers they’re worn with) is as arduous to supply as it’s smooth on the pores and skin. Most designers are content material to make use of silk velvet with added viscose, which brings down the worth. Not this designer. The black leather-based of a shirt, pants, and automobile coat combo appears to be like equally supple. There’s additionally a bomber jacket in eco cashmere bouclé and a hoodie in a cashmere “fur” with a lusciously deep pile.

Hearst studies an uptick in requests from male celebrities, which matches a option to explaining the lineup’s new vibes. However there’s nothing as standard right here as conventional black tie. No neckties both, regardless that they had been a frequent sight on the males’s exhibits in Milan and Paris. Sensualist that she is, Hearst suggests carrying a tuxedo with a high-quality cotton jersey t-shirt and a fringed scarf—double-faced brushed cashmere, in fact.