“There is no such thing as a such factor as unhealthy climate, solely unhealthy garments,” is a well-liked adage in Scandinavia the place the character of the local weather has all the time had an impact on what folks put on. Nordic knits—which had been revived by various manufacturers (together with Rolf Ekroth and Paolina Russo) for fall 2024 at Copenhagen Trend Week—are instance of how performance had been mixed with aesthetics, to not point out craft. Hearty materials of the sort you would possibly discover in your grandfather’s closet, comparable to tweeds and houndstooths, additionally maintain out the chilly, and so they had been minimize into traditional, reliable cover-ups at Caro Editions and Skall Studio this season. Constructing on the area’s famed connection to nature, dyes, prints, and different strategies had been used to conjure Mom Nature’s glory. (See the bark-like jacquard at Henrik Vibskov and Solitude Studios’ bogcore assortment.)

The CPHFW market is a recent (versus luxurious) one, and denims are a key staple. Marimekko, presently celebrating the sixtieth anniversary of its well-known Unniko poppy print, put it on denim, and Useless, which can be from Finland, confirmed a pair of double chap-like denims minimize in its signature coronary heart motif. At Stamm, denims in XXL proportions took on sculptural elements. Elsewhere corduroy made a comeback.

Much less laidback had been cinched waists and scarves and stoles that wrapped across the neck and shoulder. In distinction to those round motifs, the flat look that was seen on the Marc Jacobs present was current in a number of Danish collections. Extra pervasive was ’80s nostalgia, which was significantly sturdy (in night put on) at Nicklas Skovgaard and Mfpen’s not-quite-business-as-usual pinstripes and ties. This appears to talk to the push-and-pull between work and leisure, the informal and the polished that’s presently defining the post-pandemic panorama. The exhibits in Denmark supplied a variety of real-world choices and a smattering of extraordinary appears, for duckling-turned-swan transformations—duckling, as in hen, moderately than these of Truman Capote’s ilk. The swan, in any case, is the nationwide hen of this fairy story kingdom.

Second Nature

Designers heeded the decision of the wild, mimicking Mom Nature’s glory.