Ten years after making his runway debut, Leandro Cano returned to his origins. For his fall 2024 proposal, titled Menú, the designer went again to the identical moodboard he had made for his first assortment. “In Buffet, my first assortment, there was just a little little bit of the whole lot,” he stated on the automotive park in Madrid’s metropolis middle the place the present was held. “For fall, I’ve been streamlining and distilling the designs—it nonetheless shares among the similar colours, shapes, and ideas as that first assortment, however now the whole lot is extra mature and with a extra worldwide standpoint.”

The Jaén-born designer likes historic figures to reinterpret them by means of his personal off-kilter lens; to wit, a toile de jouy print options the Spanish king Philip II and his spouse Mary Tudor, driving a bike and hanging out at a fuel station, respectively. “I needed to interrupt up with the bucolic origins of the print and provides it a a lot more durable contact,” he defined. The print additionally encompasses a nod to his grandfather, who was a cab driver, and his Seat 1500. “In that automotive, I dreamt a thousand instances about what I might do for a residing sooner or later.”

Cano additionally returned to the intense volumes of his beginnings, updating them by means of a brand new form. “Now we have all the time made them spherical and natural, and this time we went for a geometrical high quality. They’re extra architectural,” he stated. He additionally took the chance to discover black, a shade he hadn’t used till now. “I’ve a reasonably love-hate relationship with black, however now I really feel very snug carrying it,” he mirrored. Key materials included nappa leathers, wools, and jacquards. True to his means of conceiving vogue, Cano proposed methods reminiscent of macramé or crochet, with a knitting sample he discovered on a pillow that belonged to his grandmother, forgotten for years in a drawer.