“I really like the thought of being a shirtmaker,” says Charles Sebline. “I feel that being a clothier at this time is essentially the most not possible factor—it will probably really feel prefer it goes in opposition to the grain of every little thing I really like.” He began to snort, then went on: “I’m very completely happy to do only one factor.” That one factor that Charles Sebline does for his eponymous model, Sebline, is to make among the most chic shirts on the market—shirts which conspire to each have fun and subvert the sartorial language of some of the common items in our wardrobes. “There’s a sure classicism to what I’m doing,” he says, “however I actually attempt to activate its head.” In some ways, his shirts are similar to him. Sebline is Anglo-French, with a British mom and a French father; fashion-schooled in London, labored for a lot of his profession in Paris. Duality comes naturally to him, and his work is not any completely different: Masculine and female, sobriety and dandyism, rigor and flourish—all of them coexist harmoniously.

Quickly after he launched Sebline in 2019, after a profession that ranged from interning at Vivienne Westwood on the peak of her mid-90s Anglomania period to working for Tom Ford at YSL—together with the grasp himself, Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent—his shirts acquired a cult-like standing. (In the present day they’re offered at Kirna Zabête and Web-a-Porter.) Partially, that’s all the way down to their androgynous enchantment, nevertheless it’s additionally attributable to their beautiful fabrication—normally a compact, two-ply cotton poplin, which ages fantastically and which seems implausible when it’s merely washed and left to dry—to hell with utilizing a steam iron. (As an avowed non-presser, this was music to my ears.) His straightforward and assured dealing with of colour additionally comes into play: There may be, in fact, a traditional palette of white, pale blue, navy, and black, however this fall they are going to be joined by each olive and a purple shade that Sebline known as “papal pink.”

These colours stood out on a current go to to see that fall 2024 assortment, which Sebline was displaying out of his gentle and ethereal fourth-floor residence a cuff-link’s throw away from the Musée Rodin on Paris’s Left Financial institution. What additionally caught the attention: A collection of shirts, solid-colored, some within the declarative major colour stripes that Sebline loves a lot—“visible boldness” is a phrase he returns to many times—with a crewel-like yarn stitching in shiny, distinction colours operating alongside the sting of collars, or up and down the seams, bringing the completely different parts of the shirts collectively. Others had frogging—an olde-worlde approach redolent of hussar uniforms, utilized right here to items with an off-the-cuff high quality that works properly with that type of intricate detailing. (Each the yarn embroidery and the frogging are comparatively new for Sebline.)