One of many classes of the autumn season is that grand exits may be as vital as head-turning entrances; with the backs of clothes being unexpectedly totally different from their fronts. At Rokh and Dries Van Noten there was a continuation of the backwards styling I tracked final 12 months, however for fall 2024 the main focus was on whet Nicole Phelps referred to as “different-coming-than-going development,” which is extra frequent in night put on (see Tom Ford and Giambattista Valli) than ready-to-wear. Thom Browne’s collages of fabric wrapped throughout the physique, and the Poe-ian chorus “Nevermore” appeared on the reverse of a ribbon-trimmed jacket. Jun Takahashi additionally despatched messages this manner in his menswear assortment, one among which recognized the wearer as a member of the “unhappy tune lovers membership.”

Numerous Chitose Abe’s hybrids labored a entrance/again dynamic, whereas there was a way of trying again in time at each Yohji Yamamoto. The Japanese designer’s stunning present closed with a collection of seems that includes again bustles, marking a return to a silhouette he labored with in his 1989 and fall 1995 lineups. Prada’s two-sided designs appeared to convey vogue historical past alongside for the trip.

NB: That is the primary season that our phtotographs have taken again pictures at choose exhibits. Yow will discover these pictures within the Element tab on the Collections web page.