“This assortment is about the way you develop into just a little undone all through the day,” Diotima founder and artistic director Rachel Scott tells Vogue barely an hour earlier than her label’s FW24 presentation was set to start. “Possibly your day begins at 4 a.m., and by finish of a celebration, you’re just a little bit undone.”

The Diotima girl—at her core—does what she needs, wears what she needs, and appears good doing it. This concept led Scott to design a group impressed by how this girl can stay true to herself all through something—be it a protracted evening, or just a chilly winter day like right now…whereas nonetheless carrying the intricate crochet and stitching one would possibly affiliate with resort put on. 

One of many references that turned a through-line between the gathering and sweetness look was the concept of a church woman. “So I assume it type of began, , seeing these church girls in Jamaica that we’re fairly impressed by, and on Sundays they type of put on this fascinator; but it surely’s additionally pondering of this girl who’s within the nook of the membership—she’s type of mysterious,” stylist Marika-Ella Ames says. Possibly it’s a hat leaning over her eye, or her hair that is overlaying her face. Professional hairstylist Joey George introduced the latter to life actually by making a horseshoe form alongside the brow, tied into place with an elastic wire, and sprayed with a beneficiant quantity of Kevin.Murphy’s Shimmer.Shine spray to create a shiny reflection. “It creates that jellyfish wave in a contemporary twist,” says George, reimagining Scott’s nearly oceanic billowing, draping materials. “It additionally might look very church girl.” 

Make-up, too, leaned into Scott’s Jamaican roots. Artist Yumi Lee took cues from the tropics—leaning into earthy tones and pure flushes of shade in partnership with MERIT. Eyes have been the standout characteristic the place Lee combined collectively brick, brown, and black hues for an assertion liner smoked out alongside the higher and decrease lash strains. “Typically it seems to be a bit pink; on others it seems to be a bit grey,” she says. Complexion remained glowing and skinlike by way of MERIT’s Complexion Stick, delivered to life with a touch of Flush Balm alongside the cheeks and eyes. On lips, Lee opted for a silky matte texture—”not too shiny, however not too matte”—in two redish, coral hues with a a brand new MERIT lip product launching quickly. The impact was lived in, minimal, and tropical.

“She’s been dancing, she’s been sweating, she’s been kissing whoever. She’s been having enjoyable and never worrying about her look,” Scott says with amusing. “So there’s nonetheless the component of sexiness there, but it surely’s nonetheless mysterious and it is the exploration of this girl.”