The American artist Cy Twombly was born in Virginia, however moved to Rome earlier than turning 30, making the Italian capital his major residence. Throughout this time, Twombly developed his distinctly trendy type surrounded by classical works, discovering inspiration in Greek myths and reinterpreting their authentic vintage depictions together with his personal sensibility.

“He was this American in Rome surrounded by essentially the most titanic items of artwork,” mentioned Luke Meier on a latest name, “but he nonetheless developed his personal type whereas having one foot into the classics.”

The Vancouver-born Meier is a fellow North American who, after time in New York, moved his observe to Italy. Like Twombly’s, his type is decidedly trendy regardless of—or maybe due to—his personal classical sartorial setting. Meier discovered inspiration in Twombly’s life and work for his spring 2024 lineup for OAMC.

Extra broadly, Meier defined, he was ruminating on the expertise of the expat, and the impact that residing overseas can have on an individual. “I’m undoubtedly not Italian, not in mentality or in method,” mentioned Meier, “nevertheless it creeps in on you.” Meier’s garments have a up to date enchantment that may be described as American—chalk that as much as his time at Supreme. But his work each at OAMC and at Jil Sander, alongside his spouse Lucie, has developed a softness and lightness over time. One thing related may very well be mentioned about Twombly’s work, which grew to become extra emotional after his time in Italy.

Meier famous that entry to the most effective mills and factories has allowed his work to evolve. That’s most evident in his tailoring, which was lower amply—not like elsewhere on the fall males’s reveals—and with sharpness within the line, however with a way of weightlessness. See additionally his ripstop and nylon separates and the plushness of his knitwear, which was elegant whereas remaining regardless of informal. Graphic touches got here within the type of a subtle floral and prints of maps of Rome and Lexington, Virginia, although extra compelling have been the gestural scribbles, paying homage to Twombly’s hand, that Meier positioned on sleeves and the edges of coats.

The epigraph to Meier’s assortment notes this season reads: “As soon as I mentioned to my mom: ‘You’ll be completely happy if I simply stored well-dressed and had good manners,’ and he or she mentioned: ‘What else is there?’” That’s a quote from Twombly, although Meier is aligned with it. “Class is one thing that I feel is fleeting for the time being,” he mentioned, lamenting how our want for pace has made us much less swish in our interactions with folks.

It’s true that we may all be a little bit bit extra elegant in the best way we stock ourselves immediately. It’s paradoxical to search out TikTok and trend at the moment fascinated with wealth and its stylistic signifiers and providing concepts of refined dressing when refinement ought to transcend one’s garments. “We’re all right here optimizing views, content material, and clicks,” mentioned Meier. “We would like all the pieces quicker, but anticipate a wonderfully tailor-made jacket.” Luxurious takes time. Class does, too.