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In Ryan Murphy’s second installment of the Feud anthology, Breakfast at Tiffany’s creator Truman Capote (Tom Hollander) faces the fallout after revealing the secrets and techniques of the doyennes of the New York Metropolis haute monde: Babe Paley (Naomi Watts), Slim Keith (Diane Lane), CZ Visitor (Chloe Sevigny), and Lee Radziwill (Calista Flockhart), in any other case generally known as The Swans. However whereas some viewers will likely be tuning in for the dramatized occasions that received Capote kicked out of excessive society, others will likely be being attentive to the Capote Vs. The Swans vogue — designed by Murphy’s go-to vogue collaborator and producer Lou Eyrich and her New York Metropolis-based co-costume designers Leah Katznelson and Rudy Mance — spanning from the Fifties to the Eighties. 

“I’ve been finding out The Swans ceaselessly as a result of Ryan’s been obsessive about them ceaselessly,” says Eyrich. “We’re all the time utilizing The Swans in our references [for the other shows], however this time it was digging a lot deeper.” 

The problem was as an example every character’s distinctive type whereas additionally making them complement one another in group scenes, just like the one that includes the foursome sauntering in slow-motion down the steps, like a fancy all-girl group, at CZ’s black-tie Thanksgiving soirée or lunching at their off-Fifth Avenue native, La Côte Basque (which supplied the title for the scandalous 1975 Esquire excerpt from Capote’s guide, Answered Prayers, that featured thinly veiled characterizations of The Swans).

To create the appears, Eyrich and her crew sourced designer classic as a lot as doable, tapping their ever-growing listing of sellers and collectors whereas additionally scouring Instagram and TikTok. “[Sourcing] was a full-time job,” says Eyrich. In addition they — for episode three, which reenacts Capote’s legendary 1966 Black and White Ball — introduced crimson carpet designer Zac Posen on board. “I’m such a Hollywood buff,” says Posen. “I used to be dwelling my finest Hollywood [costume designer] Adrian, Edith Head, Irene Sharaff fantasy.” 

Forward, Eyrich discusses every of the Swans’ wardrobes, whereas Posen reveals the inspiration behind the opulent masquerade robes.

Capote Vs. The Swans Style: Babe Paley’s Queen Bee Magnificence

Earlier than marrying the chronically philandering head of CBS, Invoice Paley (Deal with Williams), in 1947, Babe Cushing labored as a Vogue editor. Because of her refined sense of vogue, she graced the Worldwide Greatest Dressed Listing in 1958, famously carrying ​​dazzling Fulco di Verdura and Jean Schlumberger jewels (portrayed as guilt presents from Invoice within the present) and designs from high fashion homes like Balenciaga, Valentino, and Givenchy. 

“She didn’t want loads of fluff. She’d have earrings, possibly a brooch, an Hermès scarf. All the things was quite simple, however extraordinarily stylish and polished… All the things matched: the gloves, the purse, the sneakers, on a regular basis,” says Eyrich, who referenced society pictures and books like Swans: Legends of the Jet Society by Nicholas Foulkes and Invoice Paley’s memoir earlier than making a palette of lotions, caramels, camels, rose pinks, and pastel blues for Watts, whose meticulously put-together wardrobe meant to additionally function an armor and a facade as her character’s private life deteriorates.

In a standout vogue second within the premiere, Watts attends a runway present and becoming on the Givenchy atelier in Paris. Eyrich hunted excessive and low (together with within the Parisian home’s archives) earlier than discovering the boat-neck, cap-sleeve black gown that exhibited Hubert de Givenchy’s trademark wasp-waisted silhouette in a collector’s assortment: “We had been looking for one thing show-worthy.” 

Capote Vs. The Swans Style: CZ Visitor’s Refined Nation Home Aesthetic

To distinction Watts’ character’s cosmopolitan magnificence, Eyrich dressed down Sevigny — in houndstooth blazers, crisp button-ups and fine-knit turtlenecks — for scenes that includes the socialite tending to her sprawling backyard and finely bred horses at her Connecticut property. “We made her extra sensible, however she all the time had her pearls,” says Eyrich. To painting the Salvador Dalí muse, Eyrich used loads of American designers, together with Geoffrey Beene, Invoice Blass, and Ralph Lauren, in addition to classic items from European manufacturers like Lanvin, Pierre Cardin, and Céline.

Sevigny’s strongest look is available in episode two. Whereas on the Visitors’ ultra-swanky annual Thanksgiving in Palm Seaside, the Swans don beachside hues: Watts in a classic cream jumpsuit and gold belt and Lane in a raspberry metallic silk robe. “We tried to make use of fruit colours, like tangerines, and simply extra softness as a result of they had been within the Sunshine State,” says Eyrich. “Then, slightly little bit of an icy really feel as a result of they’re beginning to shut Capote out.” Eyrich — who referenced Visitor’s couture robes within the Metropolitan Museum of Artwork’s archives, plus pictures from the ’60s and ’70s — dressed Sevigny in a custom-designed lilac caftan ensemble, with billowing ruffling on the fluted sleeves and towards the hemline: “That is her residence. It’s a hostess gown, so to talk, so we selected a caftan, however [designed into] extra subtle, upscale night put on.”

Capote Vs. The Swans Style: Slim Keith’s Assertion-Making Separates

“Slim was a trickier one,” says Eyrich. Whereas the California-born mannequin’s tailor-made and barely sporty vogue aesthetic was nicely documented within the ’50s and ’60s because of her work with high-society photographer Slim Aarons, documentation of Slim proved sparse by the ’70s. This proved a problem for Eyrich, particularly for the non-public at-home moments depicted within the collection.

“Diane Lane, who likes to be within the costume course of, and I talked so much about it,” says Eyrich, touchdown on a wardrobe constructed round tailor-made, flowing pants. “Slightly bit menswear-inspired, and married into extra female,” says Eyrich, referencing a photograph of Slim in a protracted wrap-front robe. “She didn’t put on the smooth silky attire, however extra structured, belted and stylish, and with boots relatively than a heel.” 

Eyrich and her crew custom-built a majority of Lane’s closet, together with plenty of jewel-toned collared or bow blouses, high-waisted pants and one dramatic wool cape for a visit to Connecticut. Eyrich additionally included Slim’s beloved manufacturers, like Gucci, Lanvin, and Dior, plus homegrown designers Geoffrey Beene and Invoice Blass.

Capote Vs. The Swans Style: Lee Radziwill’s Ahead-Pondering Fashion

Regardless of her old-world European the Aristocracy bonafides, Lee — or Her Serene Highness Princess Caroline Lee Radziwill, because of her marriage to Polish Prince Stanislaw Albrecht — was a vogue trailblazer. “She was probably the most photographed, so she was all the time acutely aware of her look,” says Eyrich. Following occasions depicted within the present, Lee continued creating relationships with influential designers, serving as a Giorgio Armani model ambassador and turning into buddies with  Louis Vuitton’s then-new enfant horrible artistic director Marc Jacobs within the ’90s. 

Within the present, the Boston-Brahmin-debutante-turned-socialite wears bolder assertion items than the remainder of the Swans, like a leopard print coat and a squiggly pinstripe Galanos gown and vest. “For [Flockhart], we actually targeted on the up to date designers of the time interval,” says Eyrich, counting off names like Adolfo, Hermès, Halston, and Man Laroche. Flockhart’s edgier type development additionally telegraphs Lee’s forward-thinking mindset that’s extra ready for the relief of vogue — and societal requirements — within the ’80s. “She was advantageous carrying denims on the road,” says Eyrich, referencing pictures of Lee within the late ’70s. “We by no means put [Watts], [Sevigny] or [Lane] in denims.”

Capote Vs. The Swans Style: Black and White Ball

To costume design show-stopping ensembles for the episode depicting the well-known Black and White Ball — which was impressed by the Ascot Race scene in 1964’s My Honest Woman and known as for ladies to put on black or white appears — Zac Posen studied every thing from previous WWD and Vogue clippings to dusty CBS video footage and many years of vogue sketches. “Like, a type of crime exhibits,” jokes Posen. However, as an alternative of exactly recreating every look, the designer leaned into Murphy’s hovering imaginative and prescient. “Ryan’s like, ‘I would like so much of drama,’” says Posen, who coined a brand new time period: “Ryan Murphy Fabulosity.” 

Posen additionally wished to convey The Swans’ competitors with one another in vying for Truman’s — and excessive society’s — highlight throughout what the NYT described as “probably the most beautiful of spectator sports activities.” So, he cleverly included swan-referential clues into every of their elaborate ensembles. 

For Watts, the designer evoked “Queen Swan” by way of a mélange of references, together with Da Vinci’s drawings of the majestic birds and Artwork Deco illustrator Erté’s black-and-white illustrations. He additionally replicated a component of Babe’s real-life look to represent her rising dissatisfaction with Capote: “Babe’s [ivory Zibeline] gown was lined in a crimson.”

With no pictures of Slim to reference, Posen, who makes a cameo as Lane’s fedora-masked walker on the gala, took full artistic license for the character’s look. “[It] was carte blanche. It’s completely made up,” confirms Posen. “What would she do? There’s all these nice pictures of [Slim] in pants. She traveled the world. So I designed a tuxedo jumpsuit.” The black-and-white blocking on her opera cape was a nod to the look worn by Invoice and Babe’s daughter, Amanda Burden, who borrowed a starburst stripe-paneled robe from My Honest Woman, designed by Cecil Beaton. “I wished this graphic coloration,” says Posen. “The cape is a silk taffeta that catches air and inflates. It’s extra understated, free, louche, too cool for college — and it’s Diane Lane.”

For Radziwill’s look, which included a mod metallic sequin and bead-embellished set by Italian designer Mila Schön, Posen stayed true-ish to actual life. “She’s a marker of the time interval,” he says. “She’s the futuristic swan.” Conjuring “movie magic” by way of Flockhart’s sculpted gown, Posen concocted a “decoupage” of gold, silver and ivory elaborations, like mesh sequin and horsehair. “I discovered this weird plastic metallic trim that I might layer and braid,” he continues. “It appears extremely wealthy and decadent.”

Lastly, to interpret CZ’s robe, designed by her favourite American couturier Mainbocher, Posen revisited a mid-century “classicist” type with “slightly Charles James-y there.” Amplifying CZ’s equestrian pursuits, Posen embellished the again of Sevigny’s robe with two florets that resemble “horse prizes.” He additionally draped the underside of her strapless robe to resemble a swan’s neck. “It’s imagined to look evil,” says Posen. “Beautiful, deliciously evil aquatic birds, every considered one of them.”

The Actual Housewives of New York don’t have anything on these wild swans.

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