Gianni Versace, Yohji Yamamoto. Dries Van Noten, Rei Kawakubo, Giorgio Armani. This Engineered Clothes assortment sees Daiki Suzuki pay homage to the designers who impressed the adolescence of his profession again within the ’80s, all in his signature magpie aesthetic.

A collage of two tones of paisley shirting collectively in a single fashion feels paying homage to Van Noten’s knack for print mashups, and an eclectic geometric repeat sample nods at Versace’s playful but alluring sensibility. There’s funky jacquards, iridescent twills, and a few nice wool suitings. The spectacular assortment of materials right here paint a fantastic image, however they don’t inform the total story.

Extra compelling are Suzuki’s novel and meticulously err…engineered tailoring innovations. A tailor-made jacket is bisected on the torso and partitioned across the neck by a few zippers. The outcome permits the wearer to unzip the collar and shift it sideways, as it’s worn on this lookbook, in a means that remembers Yamamoto’s good and sometimes puzzling tailoring experiments. One other tailor-made fashion comes with a pair of lapels—one peak and one scarf—that unbutton on the going through and are interchangeable. One might presumably put on the 2, within the spirit of Kawakubo’s Frankenstein-esque fabrications, or not. That these items comprise each the complexity of the work of Suzuki’s muses and the simple pragmatism of his personal is the true achievement of this assortment.