Hideaki Shikama has been in an introspective temper. “I’ve been reconsidering Youngsters of the Discordance, and in addition rethinking myself,” stated the designer throughout a preview of this fall 2024 lineup.

Extra particularly, Shikama has been ruminating on how he can proceed to make use of his label as a car to pursue originality, and the way he can refocus it again to its preliminary ethos: “one and solely.” This meant going again to the drafting board, and to the fundamentals of his work, which, he defined, are his materials. A lot of what makes Youngsters of the Discordance specific is the way in which wherein Shikama and his group will repurpose discovered supplies and deadstock to create new kinds. The character of this follow signifies that each single piece shall be completely different in its personal means, because the supplies used to place it collectively all fluctuate.

The lineup in itself didn’t characterize a departure of Shikama’s fashion or aesthetic, however extra of a doubling-down. The bandana patchwork remained because the grounding group of the gathering, and was complimented by a run of denim collaging in shades of gray and blue, which have been repurposed from classic Levi’s. A collaboration with the sports activities attire producer Umbro dressed down the gathering with out straying too removed from the signature CotD mantra, but it surely was a few hand-crafted textiles—one quilted and one other a woodblock stamp made with pure dyes in Rajasthan—that offered some welcome texture.

What stays essentially the most compelling proposition over at Shikama’s studio is the way in which he and his group combine and match the items of his assortment. It’s right here that the “one and solely” precept really involves life. The entire is bigger than the sum of its components.