Like many designers this season, Naeem Khan was drawn to the concept of stripping issues again and toying with minimalism. “I wanted a palate cleanser—like a sorbet after a tremendous appetizer,” says the Indian-American designer. However simplicity seems to be a little bit totally different for somebody who’s recognized for his extravagant eveningwear and heavy embroidery work. As a substitute of making stark, impartial frocks, Khan experimented with discovering delicate new methods to method social gathering dressing in his personal approach—placing emphasis on quieter colours and thrives to let his craftsmanship shine.

A technique during which Khan refined his assortment was by zeroing in on a brand new architectural inspiration. He seemed to “masters of modernism,” as he calls them, equivalent to David Chipperfield and Zahn Hadid, to ignite concepts for sculptural designs. “I wished garments that had been architectural,” mentioned Khan. “Even with the ballgowns, I didn’t need big quantity. It was about holding every part minimal—however minimal in my world, as a result of I’m so excessive.” His floor-length, short-sleeved navy robe made use of raffia appliqué for a textural form. “I really like raffia as a result of it’s natural,” he mentioned. “We developed this system in Italy the place you truly sew the raffia on this summary sample. It provides me construction.”

There have been different colourful concepts within the combine, too. His silk halter robes—in purple, crimson, and magenta—had formed rosettes on the neckline, which supplied simply the correct amount of drama. Seems, they had been an adaptation of a bridal robe he designed. “I did a rosette bridal gown in a blush shade, and it was all people’s favourite gown,” he mentioned. LBDs, in the meantime, had Swarovski trims alongside the neckline and again. They had been created with dancing in thoughts. “[The long gown] has acquired a little bit flare to it on the backside,” he mentioned, “so should you’re dancing, it swings once you transfer.”

Positive, Khan’s glitzy clothes imply he’s sticking to his signatures, however there have been technical improvements right here. His sleeveless, champagne-colored column robe had intricate leaf-style embroidery throughout it—all utilized onto a snug (and surprising) jersey material. “It molds to your physique, and once you pack it from journey, you don’t even need to iron it, “ he mentioned. Name it glamour on the go.