From hair equipment that quick develop into cult classics (ahem, the bow) to pearl-accented nails, many a permanent magnificence development started its life at a Simone Rocha present–and her fall/winter 2024 runway present continues the development

“Simone had entry to–and took inspiration from–the archive of Queen Victoria’s mourning clothes, so the sweetness look drew inspiration from that,” make-up artist Thomas de Kluyver tells Vogue. “We needed to do one thing just a little darker and extra gothic than seasons previous, however which additionally felt fairly elegant and delicate on the identical time.”

That translated to brows that have been blocked out to make manner for intricate rose stem detailing, which was utilized with a stencil and black paint. “On prime of the stencil, we added flowers that have been reduce in pink or blue plastic,” he explains. Drawing upwards, away from the eyes, the embellished flowers lent an otherworldly impact to an in any other case minimal make-up look.

Hairstylist Eugene Souleiman conjured up the hair look: “It’s loosely impressed by Victorian girls, so the hair could be very, very clear and really flat,” he tells me. “Parted within the middle, it’s fairly austere.” Knitted balaclavas function within the present, so Souleiman conceived the hair to look as if it had been styled–and made extra compact–by the headwear. (Did hat hair simply get cool?)

By incorporating “little rolls into the hair, like they used to do in Victorian occasions”, the tip consequence was slick and extreme, “utilizing hair to decorate hair” in lieu of including Rocha’s traditional sparkly equipment. There have been, nonetheless, earrings fabricated from bows and beads that cascaded down from the hair rolls.

“If you happen to needed to do one thing comparable, you may simplify the look–half hair within the centre, rub it to provide it a little bit of texture, then put a beanie in your head and let it sit there for half an hour. However I feel the factor is, it’s all an concept,” Souleiman says. “We’re making a temper. Simone’s garments provide a tough type of romance–it’s a brutally sensible fairytale and it’s one thing that ought to sweep you away. We’re providing the dream, aren’t we? And for those who can’t dream…”