What do you do when, two days earlier than a runway present, Chet Lo calls and scraps the make-up look you’ve settled on? When you’re Isamaya Ffrench, you pivot. “He messaged me and mentioned, ‘We’re altering it, I would like it like X-Males! And he despatched an image of this woman with chrome tears and molten steel popping out of her mouth. I used to be like, ‘OK, let’s do it!’” A testomony to her expertise, the daring, metallic magnificence worn by Lo’s military of fashions was mesmerizing: Somewhat bit mournful and a large hit.

“To create it, we used the silver from the Isamaya Magnificence Industrial Palette 1.0,” Isamaya tells Vogue. When mixed with a little bit Mehron Mixing Liquid, the powder takes on a fluidity good for creating the phantasm of trickling tears. “The pores and skin we stored fairly pure, utilizing Skinlacq for a glowy end, and, simply earlier than the fashions have been despatched out, we brushed the tears with a transparent lip gloss for a three-dimensional impact.”

Lead stylist Anna Cofone introduced the identical degree of luster to the hair, masterminding sculptural appears adorned with silver leaf that echoed the armor motifs in Lo’s assortment. “We needed to convey confidence, energy, and a way of breaking via. The message is that this: the Chet Lo woman is to not be messed with,” says Cofone, who made “predatory” spikes on fashions with looser tresses utilizing Genuine Magnificence Idea’s Pomade and Working Hairspray, earlier than making use of a mild warmth to create a cracked silver patina on prime. “We needed to make sure that, even on Sort 4 textures, [the] hair was nonetheless on this world of armor,” she provides, and there’s no higher emblem of energy than a multi-strand braid. Fashions’ hair was cornrowed again in army formation, with a number of braids sewn on prime of each other on the temples to type a raised construction and hanging silhouette.

If Lo’s autumn/winter 2024 present paid tribute to the Chinese language Terracotta Military he’s lengthy regarded to as “a logo of energy,” then the accompanying magnificence appears have been a suitably superhuman feat.