“We gown a really social girl—we’ve received a swan!” Lela Rose stated, laughing, in her Midtown showroom. It was a grey and gritty February day exterior, however in there was an explosion of wealthy, opulent colours: citrine, magenta, bronze. There have been ballgowns woven with shimmering sunflower motifs, sparkly knits and metallic-fringed tunics. A bolero got here in black tinsel. All of it was dream style fodder for individuals who usually attend charity galas at The Pierre and weddings at The Plaza… then gossip about them at Sant Ambroeus on Madison Avenue afterwards. (Fittingly, practically each outfit right here would even have handed the strict gown code at La Côte Basque, the famed restaurant frequented by Babe Paley, Lee Radziwill, and CZ Visitor.)

That’s to not say Rose’s work reads as outdated. There have been A-line skirts, positive, but additionally an off-the shoulder waffle knit gown which she envisions pairing with an enormous turquoise belt. Rose’s shopper “loves coloration and he or she desires to be snug,” stated the designer. “I believe she’s similar to me—I wish to be in one thing particular, however I do not wish to have to consider it on a regular basis.” Units confirmed a flattering sliver of midriff when styled a sure manner, whereas a minidress with a bubble skirt had a sky-high hemline. (Rose, by the way in which, revolts towards a knee-length: “You both go lengthy otherwise you go brief—I don’t discover there’s a lot in between.”)

The designer discovered affect this season from Italian artist Laura de Santillana, identified for her modern interpretation of the centuries-old strategy of murano glass. (Santillana, who handed away in 2019, was identified for her “standing glass” collection of colourful, minimalist geometric sculptures.) “She made these completely different sorts of glass coloured lenses—I believe that they are simply so lovely. They’re like prisms of sunshine,” Rose stated.

The general ethos of her line goals to be one among elevated but enthusiastic power. It’s not an idea that feels essentially novel, nevertheless it does really feel, properly, slightly completely different within the age the place The Row’s stealth-wealth wallflowers dot the Higher East Facet. Lela Rose is actually its personal brighter bloom.